When I heard that good friends Arvind and Neela were moving to Jakarta from Hong Kong, I wanted to check with them how was it for cosmopolitan and well-travelled Indians to live in Jakarta. Although I visit the city quite often as part of my work, it is never the same as living there.
So, I asked Neela if she could give me the perspective of the home-maker settling down in a new place. She had a good and satisfying job as a lawyer in a law-firm in Hong Kong, having done her Master’s degree in Law from the Fletcher School of Law and Diplomacy in the U.S. Arvind now heads the consumer banking division of Barclays in Indonesia.
Surely, it is a country with a tremendous potential and remains to be seen if they would realise it. The signs are more promising than they were few years ago.
This is a country with strong historical connections to India. Yet, as my friend Nitin Pai puts it, India does not have a direct flight to this neighbour. A great pity. I first wrote about it in MINT some nine months ago.
What Neela writes below would resonate with many who live in India or have moved to India recently. This is my small contribution to keeping Indonesia in the frame in India.
Over to Ms. Neela Arvind.
A City of Two Tales - Moving to and living in Jakarta – from an Indian friend who has moved from Hong Kong
Over this summer, we moved to Jakarta, Indonesia. My husband and I consider ourselves adept at relocating our lives, having completed 6 international moves in the last 20 years. Anathema as it is for my naturally disorganised soul, we actually have our act down to a pat after all these years – mailing list for address changes, inventory list for insurance, list of services to be terminated, personal treasure lists of numbers to be passed on to friends, etc. Armed with all this, our self-proclaimed open minds, our sense of adventure (& humour, which is critical!) plus the inevitable list of phone numbers of friends, friends of friends and family friends in the destination city (for Indians, this is par for the course), we felt ready to tackle any move. But when at the end of last year my husband mentioned a possible move to Jakarta, my reaction was mixed.
We had spent three years in Hong Kong, that world city that packs a punch in every corner. Throw in three kids who were happy in school, our respective jobs and our precious friends, life seemed to be about as good as it could be. However, there was no denying that gnawing restlessness within us, borne out of a nomadic lifestyle of moving every three years or so. As for Jakarta, I have positive memories of several work related trips (those were the few deals that actually closed; never mind that many of them were restructured in later years!). Friends who have lived there seem to have loved it for a few reasons, at least. And, there were the two memorable holidays to Bali. Yet, I knew enough of Jakarta to sense that this move would be different from the others. A bit of a roller coaster ride. Much like a move to India might be, I thought.
Reaction from the external world did little to reassure me. Mention of the move often produced an exaggerated cry or a pregnant pause during which minds seem to be racing to find a diplomatic way of sympathising. Inevitably, the standard imagery was that of impossible traffic, poor infrastructure, inefficiency in the services sector, plentiful yet unpredictable domestic help, slow pace of life & work, relatively poor quality of professionals, etc.
My own expectations changed dramatically in the 6 months that I had prior to the move and once we’d done our research, I really started warming up to the idea of living in Jakarta. It helped tremendously when our teenage daughter, who had been quite upset about leaving Hong Kong, did a volte-face after hooking up on Facebook with four friends at the Jakarta International School, all of whom had attended school with her in some other country (there’s a completely parallel network that exists in the international schools!).
So, now that I am here, what is Jakarta really like? Put simply, it is the ultimate city of contradictions. And right there for everyone to see. Run-down and infrastructure-challenged neighbourhoods lie adjacent to an impressive downtown with shining high-rises and wide roads to rival any of the world cities I have been to. Luxury sedans jostle for space on the roads with motorcycles carrying entire families. A well-planned four-lane expressway leads to a maze of organically-evolved, narrow Jalan Tikus (from my limited knowledge of Bahasa Indonesia that literally translates to ‘Mouse Roads’). Mega malls and mom & pop stores are equally cherished. You will find incredible services at local banks (you can pay all your bills to any service provider directly at the ATM) while being totally outraged at the quality of other services. You see youngsters in familiar attire such as pants, skirts, shorts walking side by side with friends in sarongs and head cloths. The regular calls of the muezzins are an immediate confirmation that we live in an Islamic country while the strong influence of Hinduism and Buddhism is reflected in their art. Bombings and earthquakes appear to stun the city to a halt but then the next day it is bustling again.
As a place to live, Jakarta takes some getting used to. The chaos is in front of you (and in your head from all that you’ve heard and read) but there does appear to be a method to the madness. It just happens to be a different one from the typical metro madness we are used to in Singapore and Hong Kong. Of course, having taken a temporary break from the work place to settle down, my observations are essentially from the point of view of a homemaker.
Like the weather in London, the traffic in Jakarta is a topic that features at the start, middle or end of all conversations. It would be an understatement to say that the traffic is bad and cars begin crawling as they near Jalan General Sudirman, the arterial road in the business district. As a newcomer and infrequent visitor to the business district, watching the array of cars, two wheelers, traffic jockeys, car jockeys and pedestrians keeps me distracted from feeling frustrated about spending all that time on the road. Thankfully, we have managed to make traffic a bit of a non-issue in our daily life. We live close to the kids’ school, close enough for them to be able to cycle/walk. My husband bears the brunt of the commute in terms of distance but with some help from his demanding job, he manages to leave ahead of morning crush and returns well after the evening peak traffic has subsided.
Of course, it is not all smooth sailing. The repair services are a completely different story. While in our cramped Hong Kong apartment, we day-dreamed of all the space we would have in our new house but like everything else in Jakarta, living in a house is a mixed package. After the first couple of weeks in our new home, I made a laundry list of issues around the house for the landlady. The response was quick but I just wasn’t prepared for the parade that followed! Every day, without warning, I would have several batches of 2-3 people descend on me. With arms, legs and a few words in Bahasa Indonesia, I would manage to communicate enough to figure out whether they had come to attend to the phone, the plumbing, the carpentry or the electrical connection. The next day, an entirely different set of people would turn up to look at the very same problems! And after about four visits from various people, one of them would declare the problem fixed – which it would appear to be, at least until the following day when we’d be back to square one. After some frustrating moments, I have learnt to take it in my stride. My belief in Karma has been reinforced and I think that some things are just meant to remain unfixed!
The people make the real difference in Jakarta. I like to classify cities based on the overriding feeling you get when living there – do you feel the pulse of the City, the pulse of the Government or the pulse of the People? In Jakarta, as in India, it is the pulse of the people that you feel. The people seem to have a natural calm and an inner strength. Observing the gentle nature of the locals (my Bahasa Indonesia teacher takes great pains to clarify that it is only the Javanese who are this gentle!) and their ability to bounce back after every tragedy or trauma has actually helped us cope with the unfamiliar stresses of bombings and earthquakes - at least for now! Here, people have time to be civil, to answer your questions, to help you even if it is not part of their job. Domestic workers are accepting of their lot, taking a hiring or a firing in their stride. Security guards appear to be happy just to have time to strum a guitar once in a way. Drivers are willing to do any tasks around the house just so they can be of help. It’s a different rhythm.
Bottom line - Jakarta has lived up to all that I expected, and then some. It is indeed like a roller coaster ride, plunging from good experiences to bad. And there’s more to come. While I am sure exploring the cultural and environmental treasure that is Indonesia will be rewarding, I am not at all looking forward to the monsoon season when the low-lying roads are bound to get flooded and traffic, significantly worse! As I anticipated, the experience for me is very much like India, a very real place with very real issues and a place that is difficult to sum up in a few words. For now, my interest is piqued.
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